Quick answer
Grub control is all about timing. For most lawns, apply a preventive grub killer in spring or early summer, before the new grubs hatch. Our top pick is Scotts GrubEx1 (chlorantraniliprole, up to 4 months of control, low risk to bees). Want organic? Use beneficial nematodes for this season and milky spore for long-term Japanese beetle control.
White grubs are the C-shaped larvae of Japanese beetles, June beetles and other chafers. They feed on grass roots in late summer and fall, leaving brown patches that peel back like carpet. Skunks, raccoons and birds then tear up the lawn digging for them. The fix depends on whether you’re preventing next year’s grubs or killing the ones feeding now.
| 1 |  | Scotts GrubEx1 Season Long Grub KillerBest Overall (Preventive) | Check price |
| 2 |  | Syngenta Acelepryn GBest Pro-Grade | Check price |
| 3 |  | BioAdvanced Season Long Grub ControlBest for Multiple Lawn Pests | Check price |
| 4 |  | Bonide Grub Beater (Systemaxx)Best for a Late Start | Check price |
| 5 |  | NaturesGoodGuys Beneficial Nematodes (HB+SC+SF)Best Organic, Fast-Acting | Check price |
| 6 |  | St. Gabriel Milky Spore GranularBest Long-Term Organic | Check price |
The best lawn grub killers
1Scotts GrubEx1 Season Long Grub KillerBest Overall (Preventive)
GrubEx1 uses chlorantraniliprole, a preventive ingredient that kills young grubs as they hatch and has a low risk to bees and other pollinators compared with older chemistries. One application in spring or early summer protects for up to 4 months. It also controls armyworms, chinch bugs and May/June beetle grubs.
- Type: preventive granules
- Active ingredient: chlorantraniliprole
- Control: up to 4 months
- Coverage: 5,000 sq ft per 14.35 lb bag
- Apply: spring to early summer, on a dry lawn
Best For: Lawns with a history of grubs. Use it once a year as prevention.
Pros:
- Low pollinator risk for an insecticide
- One application per season
- Wide application window
Cons:
- Won’t rescue a lawn already full of large grubs
- Must be watered in to activate
- Larger lawns need several bags
2Syngenta Acelepryn GBest Pro-Grade
Acelepryn G has the same active ingredient as GrubEx1, chlorantraniliprole, in the professional formulation lawn-care companies use. A 25 lb bag is the better value for big lawns or several properties.
- Type: preventive granules
- Active ingredient: chlorantraniliprole
- Size: 25 lb
- Use: turf and landscapes
Best For: Large lawns and owners who want the pro product.
Pros:
- Same proven chemistry at bulk value
- Low bee risk
- Long residual
Cons:
- High upfront cost
- Follow the label rate carefully
- Preventive only
3BioAdvanced Season Long Grub ControlBest for Multiple Lawn Pests
BioAdvanced’s granules kill grubs and 40+ listed lawn insects, including mole crickets, chinch bugs, ticks and crane fly larvae, and give season-long protection. That makes it a good choice where grubs aren’t the only problem. Spread it with a rotary or drop spreader and water in lightly.
- Type: season-long granules
- Controls: grubs plus 40+ listed lawn insects
- Size: 10 lb
- Apply: spreader, then water lightly
Best For: Lawns with grubs plus mole crickets, chinch bugs or other insects.
Pros:
- Broad insect control
- One application per season
- Good value
Cons:
- Broader insecticides can affect beneficial insects
- Mow off blooming clover and weeds first to protect bees
- Check state restrictions on the label
4Bonide Grub Beater (Systemaxx)Best for a Late Start
Missed the spring window? Bonide’s label allows application from late May through mid-August, and it is listed for nearly all turf-damaging grub species. One 6 lb bag covers 5,000 sq ft.
- Type: season-long granules
- Apply: late May to mid-August
- Coverage: 5,000 sq ft per 6 lb bag
Best For: Owners starting in early to mid-summer.
Pros:
- Flexible summer window
- Stops feeding quickly
- Easy granular application
Cons:
- Smaller coverage per bag
- Not for fall rescue treatments
- Avoid application on blooming weeds
5NaturesGoodGuys Beneficial Nematodes (HB+SC+SF)Best Organic, Fast-Acting
Beneficial nematodes are microscopic worms that hunt and kill grubs in the soil. Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (HB) is the species most used against white grubs. This triple blend covers up to 6,200 sq ft. Apply to moist soil in the evening and keep it moist for a week or two.
- Type: live biological control
- Species: HB + SC + SF blend
- Coverage: up to 6,200 sq ft (500 million)
- Storage: refrigerate, use within about 30 days
Best For: Organic lawns and gardens with active grubs.
Pros:
- Safe for people, pets and plants
- Works on grubs already feeding
- No chemical residue
Cons:
- Living product, so timing and watering matter
- Needs soil above about 55°F
- Results vary more than with chemicals
6St. Gabriel Milky Spore GranularBest Long-Term Organic
Milky spore is a natural bacterium that infects Japanese beetle grubs only, and builds up in the soil over several seasons. It does nothing for other grub species. It’s slow, often taking 2–3 years to get established, but it’s a long-term organic option where Japanese beetles are the main problem.
- Type: biological (Paenibacillus popilliae)
- Targets: Japanese beetle grubs only
- Size: 15 lb granular
- Timeline: builds up over several seasons
Best For: Organic lawns with Japanese beetle grubs.
Pros:
- Long-lasting once established
- Non-toxic to people and pets
- Low effort after application
Cons:
- Japanese beetle grubs only
- Slow to work
- Pricey for large areas
Preventive or curative: which do you need?
Preventive
Apply in spring or early summer to kill new grubs as they hatch. Best for lawns with a grub history. GrubEx1, Acelepryn, BioAdvanced and Bonide.
Curative
For damage you see now (late summer or fall). Use a fast-acting curative grub killer from a garden center, or nematodes, and water it in.
Organic
Nematodes for this season’s grubs. Milky spore for long-term Japanese beetle control.
Do nothing
Under about 5–10 grubs per square foot, a healthy lawn usually tolerates them. Check before you treat.
How to check for grubs
- In late summer, cut three sides of a 1 ft × 1 ft square of turf about 2–3″ deep where the lawn is browning.
- Peel it back and count the C-shaped grubs in the soil and roots.
- Check a few spots. More than about 5–10 per square foot usually justifies treatment.
Apply grub killers safely
- Read and follow the label. Rates, timing and state restrictions differ.
- Mow blooming clover and weeds before applying insecticides, to protect bees.
- Water in granules as the label directs, and sweep any off paths and driveways.
- Keep kids and pets off until the product is watered in and dry.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to apply grub killer?
Preventives go down in spring to early summer (April–July in much of the US), before the eggs hatch. Curative treatments work best in late summer or early fall, when grubs are young and close to the surface.
How fast do grub killers work?
Curative products act within days. Preventives work as grubs hatch and feed, so you won’t see dramatic results. You’ll see the damage that didn’t happen.
Will grub killer get rid of moles?
Not reliably. Moles mainly eat earthworms, so killing grubs rarely stops them. Skunks and raccoons digging for grubs do usually stop once the grubs are gone.
Do I need to treat every year?
Only if you’ve had grub damage or grubs keep showing up when you check. Many lawns go years without problems, and skipping unnecessary insecticide is better for pollinators and the soil.
How we chose: This is a researched guide. We compared product labels (active ingredient, preventive or curative use, timing, coverage and restrictions), current Amazon listings, and university extension guidance on grub thresholds and timing. We didn’t field-test these products. Always follow the product label.
Update log: November 2026: rebuilt the guide. We organized picks by preventive, multi-pest and organic use, removed duplicate concentrates, and added grub checks, timing, safety and an FAQ.